Farwell to the "Land of the Long White Cloud"

South Island has not only been dramatically better weather-wise than we were led to believe but also fulfills the promise that nothing can really prepare you for the beauty, the splendour, all the superlatives you care to choose.  I know we look a bit battered above (11 days of coach travel does that to you, especially with 06.00 wake-ups every morning....!) and a bit world-weary but, honestly, there is nothing comparable which we have so far seen in our short lives.

We have done all the active bits that Glenn's head for heights will allow and watched all the bravehearts throwing themselves off bridges tied vaguely to an elastic band and running off cliffs with a handkerchief and a  ridiculously young but strapping and blond Kiwi tied to their backs.  Why more don't die remains a mystery, but I'm sure my travel insurance wouldn't have permitted it (that's my let out).  But we have variously done insane jet-boating thru wafer thin chasms, white water rafting (I don't think I'll ever do it on that "pussy" Aveyron river again), sea-kayaking, lugeing down mountains and loads of other stuff that all leaves you with a gigantic and stupid grin from ear-to-ear.  Glenn's Bucket List is getting ever shorter as he ticks off gliding in the most beautiful spot on Earth.  There's just 2 things left he's having trouble with so if any of you have any ideas, the input would be appreciated:  (1) Play the guitar like Mark Knopfler (2)Fly a Tomcat off a Nimitz-class carrier (back seat would do).

You can be on the most beautiful beaches in the world and then an hour later be awed by the snow on Mount Cook.  You can stick your finger in the super-heated vent of an active volcano and then go walk on a glacier.  You can stroll in glorious rain forest with tree ferns ten-a-penny (and, hey, no snakes, no spiders, no crocs) and then stand under a waterfall in spooky Milford Sound and the watch the blasted sandflys drown. You can see a Maori ceremony and then watch the whites massacre a haggis on Burns night in full tribal regalia (the whites, not the Maori).  I'm not going to go on about it because it mostly defies description.

Yes, we'd like to come back.

There aren't many people here and we seem to have met most of them.  That's also an advantage with House Exchange and the family we are staying with in their gorgeous house high in the hills above Christchurch are typical of the unfailing helpfulness, friendliness and humour of these "can-do" pioneering people.  If there is one complaint it's that you can't whip a map out on any street without every other person coming up to you to ask if you need help with the way.  And they're not trying to sell you anything.  Glenn's managed to leave all 3 phones and simcards in various houses and boats along the way (head still in the clouds, silly grin, silly man) but all have been reunited via the Grand Plan here in Christchurch.  Why don't they make a mobile that takes 3 simcards?


Yes, I know it's a bit far.  But, Hey, (notice if you will the use of the acquired vernacular) whether you are shattered after a 10-hour plane ride or a 20-hour one, there's not much difference.  And if there's anyone who says they'd like to get out to somewhere like rural France but where they speak English, then we can recommend New Zealand to you.  The only condition is that you like lamb.  Glenn is in heaven.

Back slowly towards reality tomorrow via the delights(?) of Bangkok and the usual day-to-day worries of how to fill the last few empty weeks in April in the houses.  Then we've got to start being nice to people again.  Oh, well, it will all seem like dreamtime............

Harrison Ford and the Craters of Rotorua

OK. So it stopped raining. We went for a walk between showers in the Wahine national park – the foot of the Tararua mountain range south of Masterton. No-one told us there was a swinging bridge; the longest/highest in NZ, 300m above a stunning gorge and about 200m long. Glenn’s worst nightmare - he broke out in a sweat just approaching it. Heights don’t bother me, so I went first and waved encouragement from the other side. He started out gingerly, but unfortunately more people arrived and crowded on behind him making the movement worse (now he understands the sign on old bridges “soldiers break step”)….anyway he made it, we had a great walk and crossed it again later.



You know you’re approaching Rotorua by the unmistakable stench of rotten eggs in the air. The drive was superb, if long, going from lush valleys to high desert plain – good skiing country in the winter – round beautiful lake Taupo and arriving in the capital of living volcanic craters. How amazing to see steam coming from odd clearings in the woods, geysers shooting up and mud fumaroles glooping in profusion. Even the local park had fenced craters doing their stuff among the flower beds.



Our motel had its own sulphurous plunge pool tapped directly from the bowels of the earth. A constant 40C and smelly. I braved it twice a day - it did wonders for the psoriasis and the aches and pains. Trouble is, no-one mentioned it turned silver jewellery black instantly! Luckily it cleaned up ok. Spent so long deciding which Maori cultural event and hangi (meat cooked in a steam pit) to go to that we didn’t do any – saving it for next time. We met several couples from the home exchange site with a view to staying at their houses in the future. All delightful, but one or two with boats/jetties/campervans in spectacular waterfront positions . Glenn had arranged a series of meetings so we had coffee, tea, lunch and two dinners to attend which rather cut down on our cultural visits, but we did spend a whole day in Waimangu thermal park, one of the newest geothermal parks (The last eruption in 1976). We had it almost to ourselves as we wandered down the cinder paths coming upon amazing formations, colourful deposits, steaming pools and miniature volcanic eruptions. The best and brightest was the blue pool in the photo. A crater which overflows and feeds the trickle of a stream below heading out to lake Rotorori. The colour is due to the suspension of silica particles in the water, plus sun and a blue sky helps. The temperature of the stream and the various lakes and ponds is above boiling point, so although they looked tempting a quick finger test is enough to discourage. After a 2.5 hour stroll we came to the lake surrounded by panga tree ferns. A flock of black swans glided on the, now, cool waters and the cicadas were deafening. We caught an old 50s bus back to the car.



The rolling green of middle earth (hobbitland again) gave way to the coast at Napier, finally. So many miles of beautiful scenery, native bush, sheep, cattle and rivers; over the rackety bridges, reminiscent of Madison County, but without the coverings, and through the small townships and villages with their clapboard houses and churches also with an American slant. The sea front is long, golden and delightful. Shaded areas, picnic tables and BBQs. Manicured gardens everywhere and an art-deco town like a movie set stacked up against the rocky promontory – row upon row of pastel frontages with curved corner windows and wrought ironwork.



Back at Masterton, Jeanette and Phil had laid on a party for us! All their friends and children seemed to be there to greet us and everyone had brought a plate of food, except us!!! It was a great send-off (I even got invited to join their book club evening with a group of 13 delightful and interesting women). Next morning it was a 5.30 start to catch the train to Wellington and the Interisland ferry to Picton on the “mainland” as the South Islanders call their part of the country, for the start of the next phase…..



The crossing of the Cook Strait was thankfully fine and as the boat wound its way through the stunningly pretty fingers of Queen Charlotte Sound we could see that this was probably going to be the best scenery of the trip. Our transport was a clapped-out old Nissan, but then it was a cheap rental at £20 a day. It did have air-con and it was automatic, so no complaints there. We stopped off at Havelock and the ‘Slip Inn’ right on the quay for some really delicious food and wine – greenlipped mussels and cold white wine. Judy and Tom who kindly put us up for a few nights in Nelson, are the parents of some more home-exchangers with whom we will stay for a few days at the end of our south island tour. We took a water taxi to Bark Bay in Abel Tasman national park. The little cove was so pretty and inviting that we decided to have our picnic and swim before the long walk to Torrent Bay. There were just a couple of German backpackers playing a yukele when we arrived, but by the time we left there was a flotilla of sea kayakers who also thought this was a nice quiet bay….the water was warm, blue and deep, however, and we had some shade from the rocks above a little freshwater stream so the setting was idyllic and, for once, the weather was glorious. Finally dragged ourselves away and began the hike. And what a hike! The trudge was all through sub-trop bush with masses of tree ferns for shade, but there was a lot of uppy/downy stuff and we didn’t seem to be getting very far as we kept seeing the same scene every time we broke cover round Sandfly cove. Finally we emerged in Torrent bay and collapsed into the cool water to await the last water taxi back to Kaiperiperi. It’s hard to properly describe such a beautiful place as there are so many here, but it seems that each one just gets better and better. Today we completed a very small section of the Queen Charlotte track which, again, has shade from those amazing tree ferns with ‘to-die-for’ views at every turn. We both are amazed at the lack of people, given that this is such a destination. We rarely see more than one or two others on our walks. One elderly American today asked us about the tree ferns as she had never seen any before and said ‘isn’t this just the most beautiful country in the world?’ I have to say we might need to agree with her by the time this trip is over.



We’re now back in Picton spending a quiet evening before our train journey to Christchurch tomorrow and the start of the 11 day organised tour of the rest of South Island. On our way back from Nelson we stopped at the Highfield Estate vineyard and had the most wonderful lunch with a wine tasting and a very fine bottle of Pinot Noir. Having missed lunch at another winery due to this mornings walk, we made sure we got a meal at the ‘Toot and Whistle’ – a pub near the train station of course. One of the strange things about this place is that if you leave it til late to find a restaurant you are often disappointed. Not because they have no room, but because they are closed! Everyone seems to go to bed at 9p.m. Twice now we have gone without supper due to lack of interest…… will make sure we pack a picnic for tomorrow. Now, about that glass of wine…….

and then the rains came...

Below is where we've been living on and off for the past 2 weeks and the car which our hosts have lent us (Glenn's kind of number plate).  They have about 30 acres here and it's the kind of place where their nearest neighbour entertains us by coming and going in his helicopter!

Despite the photos, we've had more wet days than dry since we've been here.  Pity our hosts who are kayaking and walking the Queen Charlotte track in s. island! although the last blog was only on line a few days ago it was actually written 2 weeks ago and published to the wrong site - my mistake!  Should pay more attention but the brain is atrophying with all this rain...

The papers here are full of the fact that there has been 3 times the annual norm of rain for January causing havoc on the roads, and disrupting all the summer and sporting events.  The rugby friendly at Mangatainoka, sponsored by Tui a local brewery, descended into riot with no less than 7 streakers on the pitch some dancing and doing handstands before being removed - the rain didn't deter them! Other local news includes a row over an advert for a bar person 'beer wench wanted - a midget or large-chested woman to serve beer to  rugby fans" - what response would that receive in PC UK I wonder?

We went down to our hosts bach (beach house) to join them for a couple of days before they left for their own holidays.  What a magic place.  It took an hour to drive over the neverending hills (you can see why they chose this place for the Lord of the Rings - the locations are everywhere) and then 5km of gravel track ending at a remote and rugged bay on the pacific.  Jeanette and Phil's 'Blue Bach' is as close to the sea as you can get.  At high tide, there are only about 3m separating you from the surf as you sit on the deck.  One or two other bachs hidden amongst trees are around the bay which stretches for over 5km.  Behind us the folded hills littered with sheep and cattle.  Phil took Glenn with him on a fishing trip - they launched the boat by tractor from a sandy beach a little way along, running it into the surf off the trailer.  They couldn't find his lobster pots, but put out a net and after only 1/2 hour caught several large 'mokey' - big white fish - and a couple of sand sharks.  Phil dealt with them expertly and we had the freshest and most delicious fish supper that evening.

Back at Masterton the weather got worse and we've had rain almost every day, sometimes torrential.  We took a trip down to the furthest point of n. island to the little fishing village of whaigu and the Pinnacles - there is a tortuous track of 5-6km out to the lighthouse and a seal colony which we braved.  It was worth it to find a small colony of fur seals with just the cutest pups amongst the jagged rocks.  Got as close as I dared to film them, but the males looked quite threatening and you are told never to get between a seal and the sea - wonder why....

Drove back in the rain but took a different route along the edge of a large lake.  Everywhere seems so deserted and unspoilt.  If this was UK there would be wall to wall development along the lakeshore with golf courses and pleasure boats.  It is a heritage area, so perhaps this explains it!

Another day, we went into Wellington, but as it was raining, just for a change, we didn't do much exploring.  We did the famous Te Papa centre which is part museum/part galleries and exhibitions.  A wonderful place with so much to see and learn about the culture and history of NZ.  Drove around some of the 'millionaires row' houses along the bay and out to the point - again lots of opportunities for Lord of the Rings sites and trips.  Ended by visiting the Otari-Wilson Bush natural gardens late in the day and had it all to ourselves - in the rain.  It was very beautiful with just natural bush down in a gorge, arranged with treetop walks, waterfall tracks, ponds and clearings.  the fabulous tree fern were huge and created natural umbrellas to keep off most of THE RAIN...

We took ourselves off to the bach again on our own for a couple of days and walked for miles along the sandy beach at the edge of the surf one day when the sun was out for a change.  Just chilled and watched the sea change from morning to night.  Tried another walk over land to honeycomb rock, but got bogged down, literally, due to all the RAIN so aborted.  Did I mention the RAIN?

Sydney to Hobbitland and beyond.....

I think we fell in love with Sydney. The place, that is, not a fella! We spent such a nice time with my cousin Linnet and husband Nick in Saratoga which, once again, is on a beautiful inland waterway. Still enchanted by the call of Kookaburras in the morning as opposed to sparrows and blackbirds and the flashes of bright colour as lorakeets and finches jostle for space in the lush tropical growth. The only other wildlife we managed to see was a truly beautiful eastern waterdragon. Linnet had seen him before at a nursery which has a very pretty cafe set amongst dense greenery and waterways and the day we went for coffee, he charmed us by crouching next to our table like a statue and devouring most of my 'rocky road'. He is now christened Rocky (see photo). The also-charming young waiter told us the sad tale of a 'joyrider' who screeched into their parking lot killing the waterdragon's mate. The cafe closed in mourning for the day... As they mate for life, poor Rocky is doomed to bachelorhood, but he now has a lot of friends who feed him royally.

We travelled into Sydney by train to stay at a hotel for a couple of nights so that we could see more of the city. We really walked our feet off for 2 days and nights, but so enjoyed the harbourside cafe society, the street performers, the lights and the people. The botanic gardens were a delight and such a green haven with flying foxes roosting in the trees - and actually destroying them as we learned, but since they are protected the gardens are having to find ways of 'encouraging' them to leave which are non-invasive! How pc can you get!! Everywhere the views are spectacular - the opera house of course, the bridge and the business district skyline in the gold of the setting sun is stunning. We had a particularly great evening at the opera house bar where we met my cousin's daughter Amanda (my second cousin/cousin once removed?) who works nearby at the Rocks. At 6 p.m. the 'bar' which encompasses the public seawall seating, is buzzing. An eclectic mix of theatregoers, backpackers and suits all vying for the best spot. We sat and observed, as oldies are apt to do, and Glenn coined it when he said that Attenborough should come and film here as it was the greatest observation on the human mating game ever! The body language spoke volumes...but what a place to be to watch the sun go down with a bottle of chilled wine and a fab tasting plate of very interesting tapas smoothly organised by Amanda.

On the 10th, we flew Sydney - Auckland NZ and picked up a rental car and stayed one night in the city before driving 4 hours north to Russell in the Bay of Islands. Found Auckland to be pretty uninteresting, except for the great views from the other side of the city at Devonport, which is a quaint suburb. Did enjoy a couple of hours in a brilliant 'Irish' pub with a very good live group doing lots of the music from our younger days, until the one guy in the place older than us latched onto us. Since he was obviously the town drunk and we weren''t sure whether we were responding correctly due to his NZ accent, our failing hearing and the noise level, we decided to call it a day and got out while the going was good - a couple had already been thrown out by the bouncer so it was probably time to go anyway!

We were hosted in Russell by Kathy and Rob, also HomeExchange members, who very kindly gave us a room with them for 3 nights. Kathy is travelling to Europe this summer with a group of friends and will spend a few days with us in Najac en route. The views from their windows are of the bay and the islands - just a lovely location. They had a bbq for us to meet their friends, also members of HomeExchange, so it was great to put faces to e-mails, so to speak. The area is just beautiful (coastal shot above). The countryside on the drive up there is awesome. I guess the fact that this was, and still is, a volcanic region is what gives the hills their incredible shapes - but unlike most volcanic regions I've seen, these are closely carpeted with velvety grass and so many tree-ferns they form a forest of their own. The beaches are heavenly as the tropical vegetation and banks of agapanthus and cana lillies come right down to the sand so that you can lie on grass in the shade of the huge magnolia trees and just walk a few metres into the surf. The water was cooler than OZ, as is the air temperature, but for us this was a huge relief so we spent most of our time with a picnic and a cold bottle on the beach swimming and reading and browsing round the little towns. The towns remind me very much of the US southern states with the clapboard houses and churches, delicate iron balustrades, wide streets and covered walkways. Very smalltown, very friendly and, best of all, individual shops - no 'out of town' shopping here, you go to the butcher, the baker and the farmer's markets. There are small supermarkets, but the emphasis is on small.

On the 14th, we took back the car and flew Auckland to Wellington - south of North Island. Phil and Jeanette met us and brought us out here to their home at Masterton. What a place! This will be the longest of the home exchanges we have arranged and it couldn't be better. Another beautifully designed house in 14 acres near the Taraparua mountain range, Wairarapa lake and an hour's train ride to Wellington city. They are francophiles and there are echos of french living everywhere in the house from the glasses (made in France) to the decor and the lovely parterre garden Jeanette is creating. They have their own cattle, pigs, sheep and chickens so as well as a pretty vegetable garden, we have a freezer full of organic meat to eat plus venison (locally raised), fresh eggs and crayfish from their 'bache' (New Zealand beach house)! The bache is on the east pacific coast about an hour away down a gravel road so is very remote. We're invited to join them there for a couple of days before they leave for their own 'summer' holiday in the south island with their family. While they're away we can go and use it as well, so we have great options for exploring this part of North Island. They have also lent us their toyota 4WD which makes it even easier!

The downside? Well, it started raining yesterday and today is torrential and blowing a gale plus the temp has dropped and we're scrabbling for warm clothes - Glenn left all his fleeces and jumpers in the Whitsundays - we've even lit a fire!! We did go for the best pizza outside Italy last night. A log cabin in the woods with a watermill generating electricity, a woodfire oven for cooking and no licence. They only cook on Friday nights only 9 choices of pizza, but, boy are they good. We took our own wine and glasses and joined the locals at trestle tables for the feast.

13 hours time difference from UK, 12 from France and 35 degrees south of the equator it's the furthest we've ever been from home, so as I write this at 2 in the afternoon on Saturday, it's 1 a.m. UK time, we're upside down and the water really does go down the plughole in the opposite direction!

So, kia ora, have a g'day, mate, she'll be right!

No guesses for where we are now from the top picture!  We are staying with Sue's cousin at Saratoga, north of Sydney and they have been showing us around their part of NSW.  We were delighted to go down to Sydney on their boat and have a private tour of Sydney Harbour, followed by a picknick on board, followed by a rough trip back up the Pacific to their inlet Broken Water in Brisbane Bay (nowhere near Brisbane).  Tomorrow we are going to stay a few days in Sydney itself before moving off to NZ on Sunday

The bottom shot is Surfers' Paradise (eat your heart out Joel) in Quensland, where we were well-entertained by Lynne and Chris (old friends from Wimborne).  I hasten to add they do not live on the "Costas" but they just had to show us this excess on the great drives they took us.  The shot is from the the top of the 74-floor Q1 tower and shows the ocean as well as the Broadwater which runs parallel for at least 30 miles along the coast to provide wonderful sheltered boating away from the ocean swell.  Reminds me a lot of the Inland Waterway in the USA which runs from Miami hundredsof miles north to the Chesapeake and beyond.

Have to say that for us Brits this part of NSW is climatically preferable to Queensland, which is both hotter and much more humid.  I'd like to say that the middle shot is a typical Queensland shot but it isn't but it comes close.  We saw some great semi-tropical rainforest up there but this picture is in a nursery (cheat!) in NSW but comes very close to the rainforest.

Hear the weather continues to be dreadful in Europe and therefore best not to say anymore lest some start throwing things at their computer.  So I won't.  But thinking of you all, all-the-same.